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Subject:  Trip report Part II Date:  10/10/2012  3:04 AM
Author:  fleg9bo Number:  18960 of 22227

The day we left for Austria started out with rain and stayed rainy throughout the afternoon. No matter -- it was a driving day, a change of locales, and we weren't going to be seeing much from the highways anyway. We headed south to Linz and then eastbound on the highway that connects Vienna and Salzberg. Or tried to. The transition included a 90-minute spell of sitting while crews cleared something out of the road ahead of us.

When you drive into Austria in a non-Austrian car, you have to get a highway sticker for your windshield. They are sold at stores and gas stations and start at around €9 for 10 days. I assume that's in lieu of paying tolls. I happened to read the section about this in my Austria guidebook, otherwise I'd never have known. There are a heck of a lot of semis on those highways, even more than cars at times. Another assumption: Europeans ship most stuff by truck compared to here, where a lot is shipped by rail. Drivers are quite civilized in Czecho and Austria. When you're in the left lane passing semi after semi after semi, you seldom find someone glued a half car-length behind, as you always do in France where everyone is frantic to get to a three-hour lunch or a picket line. And in Prague, drivers actually respect crosswalks as they do here. I was impressed.

Lonely Planet mentioned the town of Krems as a good place to find lodging in that stretch of the Danube that we wanted to see. We found a hotel LP liked but it was full. An information office sent us to another hotel where a €103 room was so small and dingy that it almost made us cry to see it. So we headed down the river to the first place that caught our eye, which was Dürnstein, an adorable little town overlooked by a castle ruin and close by vineyards. We lucked into an excellent room -- no apartment this time but a room so very long and with beds at each end such that my noise-abatement requirements were met. The place is called the Sänger Blondel Hotel, named for a minstrel who knew Richard the Lionheart from early days at court. Richard was taken prisoner and held for ransom in Dürnstein Castle on his way back from a Crusade. That part is true. The legend is that Blondel didn't know where he was and went looking for him, singing his minstrel songs as he went. When he passed by Dürnstein, Richard heard him and joined him in song, thus revealing his whereabouts. Kind of a medieval GPS. The castle is in ruins today but a hike up to it affords nice views of the town and the Danube which, to my disappointment, was not blue at all but more of a greenish brown. But really swell, as you can see from one of my photos. This stretch of the Danube was everything it's cracked up to be.

We visited a few cute towns along the river, did some walking and sampled some excellent wine. And of cours