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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: of 10514  
Subject: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 4:57 PM
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Yes, it's time to think about accessories and accouterments to enhance my listening and viewing experience. ;-)

I think I'll have to get that digital optical audio cable for something I was discussing with Hal last week, can't remember but I think it was important.

And perhaps I ought to get some new speaker wire because the stuff I'm using, which happens to be Monster, probably purchased when I bought the speakers from the specialty store back in 97/98 is turning green and sticky on the ends, sometimes travelling a good number of inches up the wire. Sticky oxidation? Hal thinks it might be from the plastic coating breaking down?

But new wires or not, I generally just twist the strands and stick it through the side holes. Would you recommend banana plugs or pin connectors? would that help fight oxidation?

RM
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Author: 1poorguy Big funky green star, 20000 posts Old School Fool CAPS All Star Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9701 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 5:06 PM
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Don't get Monster. Rip-off. It's not bad, but really no better than most generic stuff. And they charge 2x (or more) for it. Go to Monoprice.com and shop there. Great prices and good stuff.

I ordered banana connectors and put them on my wire. It is just soooooooo much easier than trying to insert the wire and make sure it doesn't slip out while you're screwing down the post cap. Just plug the banana in and you're good to go.

But I'm lazy. :-)

1poorguy

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9703 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 5:46 PM
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I have opened the link to monoprice, thanks again for yet another tip.

Now that I'm getting an AVR capable of 7.1 which I just told Hal a few minutes ago, I am toying with the idea of taking my Onkyo out of my stereo system and linking my larger BA CR8s in as the mains with the new center from ATech, moving the BA CR6s to the surround position and relagating the old LREs to the back.

Then I can take my trusty Onkyo to MY den get a small cd player and a small pair of speakers..... or move the CRs in with the Onkyo (it's the smallest BR) and I could have music while I sew or paint....

One step at a time....

RM

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9704 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 6:15 PM
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I think I'll have to get that digital optical audio cable for something I was discussing with Hal last week, can't remember but I think it was important.

RM


Best is HDMI from satellite receiver to amp. HDMI amp to TV. If there’s an optical out from the receiver go to optical in on the amp, HDMI to receiver. If neither then component to amp, HDMI to receiver. If you can make an optical connection then you will need a fiber-optic cable.

And perhaps I ought to get some new speaker wire because the stuff I'm using, which happens to be Monster, probably purchased when I bought the speakers from the specialty store back in 97/98 is turning green and sticky on the ends, sometimes traveling a good number of inches up the wire. Sticky oxidation? Hal thinks it might be from the plastic coating breaking down?

Moisture (humidity) drawn up by capillary action causing oxidization (which affects inductance and capacitance in the wire). Buy simple 18-gauge lamp wire (probably sold at the appliance store you mentioned) that has one side marked (to show polarity) and costs cents per foot. Special ultra-copper wires aren’t needed. In fact, it’s 99.9 per cent wasted in most speaker connection setups.

Tip on speaker wire: buy a 50-foot roll (or two of them) and always add ten percent to distances needed to be covered.

But new wires or not, I generally just twist the strands and stick it through the side holes. Would you recommend banana plugs or pin connectors? Would that help fight oxidation?

The amp’s speaker connections are gold-plated as are some banana plugs so there is no oxidization. Realize that banana plugs add about two-inches to the depth of the amp and, in certain places that may cause the amp to be too forward. Pin connectors are best used when there’s a disparity with an amp’s spring-loaded connectors and heavier wire. You won’t need pin connectors.

As pointed out, using bare wire connecting the amp and speakers is a tad fiddly but reasonably so. Takes a little longer. I’d do that first and if you can get a good buy on banana plugs do that later. Five-way binding posts can be screwed on fairly tight and that does reduce the possibility of oxidization.

You will need an RCA jacked cable (male on both ends) from the amp’s sub out to the sub itself. Buy a Y-connector so you can have both of the sub’s inputs fed: that is if it does have two inputs, if just one then no Y-connector needed.

As for other cabling (from components such as the DVD), inspect the RCA connectors for oxidization (the cheaper aluminum RCA jacks oxidize surprisingly fast). If they’re a dull grey I’d replace with new. If they are those that came with a unit (called proof cables there so you do have something) they’re not good enough for bootlaces. Dump them.

About cable overall: unless your stuff is ultra-high end costing thousands of dollars apiece don’t go for expensive cable. If you do have to buy Monster choose the mid or low range priced stuff not high priced.

As I wrote in The Hi-Fi Devil’s Dictionary “Since the wiring of an amp or speaker is not able to be altered and only the cable between them can, more has been written about this speaker cabling than almost any other aspect of sound reproduction.”

MichaelR

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9705 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 6:57 PM
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As pointed out, using bare wire connecting the amp and speakers is a tad fiddly but reasonably so. Takes a little longer. I’d do that first and if you can get a good buy on banana plugs do that later.

Hal thinks this is best, he says connecting to banana plugs is just adding another connection (I am assuming in terms of resistance) and therefore bare is better.

You will need an RCA jacked cable (male on both ends) from the amp’s sub out to the sub itself. Buy a Y-connector so you can have both of the sub’s inputs fed: that is if it does have two inputs, if just one then no Y-connector needed.

We sort of skirted around this once but never got into any depth that I can remember anyway. But what is this connection for? I assume this is to the level in on the sub? (BTW I found the manual the other day). Other than being plugged into the wall for power the only other connection in use are the L/R speaker terminals.

Heck no, I don't have to go with Monster but why 18 rather than say 16? I think the Monster is probably 14 judging on the thickness but the room the system was originally bought for was much longer. I do like the idea of lamp cord, is that always copper? Since aluminum wiring in walls is frowned upon by most building codes, I suspect things may be similar for lamp cord?

I'm pretty sure the digital audio cable, now that Hal has refreshed my memory, was for getting the sound for broadcast TV out of the antenna in of the TV to the digital audio in on the amp so we could hear CBS using the surround system.

RM

PS - I went to that private sale at the appliance store today. Pretty much only LCD TVs, a couple different dvd/blu ray players in boxes, not even set up and no speakers or amps any where. I did find some new vinyl that I hope to install next year. Have to remodel the kitchen first.

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Author: fleg9bo Big funky green star, 20000 posts Top Recommended Fools Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9706 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 7:56 PM
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Yes, it's time to think about accessories and accouterments to enhance my listening and viewing experience. ;-)

Be sure to include some nicer bowls to eat your snacks out of while you watch and listen to your new system.

--fleg

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9707 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 8:43 PM
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As pointed out, using bare wire connecting the amp and speakers is a tad fiddly but reasonably so. Takes a little longer. I’d do that first and if you can get a good buy on banana plugs do that later.

Hal thinks this is best, he says connecting to banana plugs is just adding another connection (I am assuming in terms of resistance) and therefore bare is better.

RM


Hal is right yet the resistance created is minimal. Having bananas, as 1poorguy pointed out, is the ease of making the connection especially in tight situations. However, starting out with the new amp I’d go bare (get Hal to loan you a wire stripper).

You will need an RCA jacked cable (male on both ends) from the amp’s sub out to the sub itself. Buy a Y-connector so you can have both of the sub’s inputs fed: that is if it does have two inputs, if just one then no Y-connector needed.

We sort of skirted around this once but never got into any depth that I can remember anyway. But what is this connection for? I assume this is to the level in on the sub? (BTW I found the manual the other day). Other than being plugged into the wall for power the only other connection in use are the L/R speaker terminals.

Your new amp has a sub pre-out meaning while all other speaker connections are powered from the cut off level (which you can choose and it will probably be 120 Hz). the signal below that cutoff are sent to the sub pre-out un-amplified (using the sub’s amp are the power source). I don’t know your sub but it must have two line inputs (see manual) to which the sub pre-out is connected. You won’t need the speaker level connections because the speakers are now driven by the amp.

Heck no, I don't have to go with Monster but why 18 rather than say 16? I think the Monster is probably 14 judging on the thickness but the room the system was originally bought for was much longer. I do like the idea of lamp cord, is that always copper? Since aluminum wiring in walls is frowned upon by most building codes, I suspect things may be similar for lamp cord?

I don’t know of any speaker wire that is aluminum (the alternative to copper is silver and that blows the budget big time). Why 18-gauge stranded copper lamp wire? Anything below that is too damn hard to work with and may not fit into the five-way binding posts unless you have an adapter (more cost).

If the old wiring you have has corrosion for only a few inches, you could cut this off exposing clean wire. Depends on needed length and it will work – but if it were me, I’d replace with 18-gauge.

I'm pretty sure the digital audio cable, now that Hal has refreshed my memory, was for getting the sound for broadcast TV out of the antenna in of the TV to the digital audio in on the amp so we could hear CBS using the surround system.

You may have to continue using this unless you have a booster amp on the OAT aerial that can send a line output you can then connect to the amp.

As for the sewing/art room get some small powered computer-type speakers and use your old DVD as a CD player (after you get the Blu-ray).

I went to that private sale at the appliance store today. Pretty much only LCD TVs, a couple different DVD/Blu ray players in boxes, not even set up and no speakers or amps any where. I did find some new vinyl that I hope to install next year. Have to remodel the kitchen first.

Probably not a large profit line for them. Any other stores in the area?

MichaelR

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9708 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 9:04 PM
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Be sure to include some nicer bowls to eat your snacks out of while you watch and listen to your new system

Time to break out the fine china?

Perhaps we'll drink the beer out of pilsner glasses instead of straight from the bottles.

Nice to see ya fleg. :-)

RM

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9709 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 9:55 PM
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I don’t know your sub but it must have two line inputs (see manual) to which the sub pre-out is connected. You won’t need the speaker level connections because the speakers are now driven by the amp.

Okay my Boston Acoustic CR400 sub manual says:

As a general rule, the best results come from using the line level connections, where sound is passed from the preamplifier's outputs to the subwoofer. Many receivers and integrated amplifiers include "preamp out" RCA jacks on the back panel. You many use outputs labeled "preamp out" or "sub out". Either may be connected the subwoofer's line-level inputs.

It then gives me 2 options to connect. Option one is a preamp out with a L and R jack. I don't believe mine has that.

I do know it has a single sub out so in Option 2:

Use an RCA cable to connect your system's sub out jack to one of the line level in jacks on the subwoofer. If your system lets you switch the sub out jack between a flat response of low-frequency-only signal, use the flat-response setting.

The drawing shows a single cable from the sub-out going to the Left line level in. Why not use the Right channel? Does this mean the sub has some internal circuitry that doesn't require the Right?

The next section describes using the speaker terminals as I am now using. wired this way, the subwoofer does not present any additional load to your amplifier.

I assume I don't really need to worry about the load on the amp for the smallish size of my speakers, so I should use the sub out method? So I would remove the speaker wires from the sub entirely?

I don’t know of any speaker wire that is aluminum

I guess I should have been more specific. I've looked at a lot of speaker wire on Amazon and a lot of reviews say the wire they've gotten are copper clad aluminum. Cheaper to manufacture I'm sure. But I know I can get lamp cord.

You may have to continue using this unless you have a booster amp on the OAT aerial that can send a line output you can then connect to the amp.

Yup, you told me about that one.

Any other stores in the area?

Just the other appliance store in Alpena (35 miles) and it only sells Sony AVRs. Best Buy is a 2.5 hour drive. ABC Warehouse is nearly 2 hours. And there's Wal-mart and K-mart. Have I mentioned I live in the sticks? ;-) I wasn't kidding.

As for the sewing/art room get some small powered computer-type speakers

On my trusty 35 year old Onkyo? That just seems... wrong! :-)

RM

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9711 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/11/2012 11:59 PM
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Okay my Boston Acoustic CR400 sub manual says:

As a general rule, the best results come from using the line level connections, where sound is passed from the preamplifier's outputs to the subwoofer. Many receivers and integrated amplifiers include "preamp out" RCA jacks on the back panel. You many use outputs labeled "preamp out" or "sub out". Either may be connected the subwoofer's line-level inputs.

Use an RCA cable to connect your system's sub out jack to one of the line level in jacks on the subwoofer. If your system lets you switch the sub out jack between a flat response of low-frequency-only signal, use the flat-response setting.


The drawing shows a single cable from the sub-out going to the Left line level in. Why not use the Right channel? Does this mean the sub has some internal circuitry that doesn't require the Right?

RM


One RCA tipped cable running from the new amp’s sub pre-out to the sub’s line level left input (which may be marked ‘mono’ or ‘LFE in’). Remove the speaker level wires entirely. When running the YPAO set the sub’s volume half way and the frequency level to uppermost. It will probably end up with a crossover of about 120 Hz.

The next section describes using the speaker terminals as I am now using. Wired this way, the subwoofer does not present any additional load to your amplifier

I assume I don't really need to worry about the load on the amp for the smallish size of my speakers, so I should use the sub out method? So I would remove the speaker wires from the sub entirely?


The load on the new amp is well within the amp’s power curve. Not a concern. When the sub is setup correctly you’ll only have the RCA cable attached. As above, remove the speaker level cables.

I don’t know of any speaker wire that is aluminum

I guess I should have been more specific. I've looked at a lot of speaker wire on Amazon and a lot of reviews say the wire they've gotten are copper clad aluminum. Cheaper to manufacture I'm sure. But I know I can get lamp cord.


Get lamp cord.

Any other stores in the area?

Just the other appliance store in Alpena (35 miles) and it only sells Sony AVRs. Best Buy is a 2.5 hour drive. ABC Warehouse is nearly 2 hours. And there's Wal-mart and K-mart. Have I mentioned I live in the sticks? ;-) I wasn't kidding.

LOST UPS DELIVERY MAN LIVED ON BERRIES IN MI

Reuters Arnold Belkink, a 20-year veteran of UPS, became disoriented making a delivery in Northern MI and spent four days finding his way back to civilization existing only on berries and tree back for sustenance. “I never thought I would see my family again,” he said.

“I was making a delivery – a large box of electronics – and returning to the main highway I missed several turns and found myself completely lost,” he said. Belkink was so at a loss as to which road to follow he decided to wait for a passing vehicle for directions but, in four days, no one passed by which is not unusual in MI.

Belkink was finally found by a hunting party who guided him back to a main route. He is now at home with his family.

© Reuters Fish and Deli

MichaelR


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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9712 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 10:01 AM
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LMBO!

Love the Reuters Fish and Deli!

Looks like I may be able to hit Alpena Sunday delivering a rooster to a guy I sold a couple guineas to a few years back. I can hit Home Depot for lamp cord or the one lamp store in the area.

RM

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Author: TMFTwitty Big funky green star, 20000 posts Old School Fool CAPS All Star Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9713 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 3:07 PM
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Hal is right yet the resistance created is minimal. Having bananas, as 1poorguy pointed out, is the ease of making the connection especially in tight situations. However, starting out with the new amp I’d go bare (get Hal to loan you a wire stripper).

I ended up soldering all the wire ends. Got tired of oxidation and indifferent alligator crimp terminals in the speaker cabinets causing pops and dropouts as the connections aged.

Richard

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Author: 1poorguy Big funky green star, 20000 posts Old School Fool CAPS All Star Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9714 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 3:15 PM
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The adding of banana plugs, if they are decent ones, will have a trivial effect on the sound. You might be able to measure it with some serious equipment, but you won't hear it.** But there is certainly nothing wrong with inserting the strands into the posts and tightening down the caps. On my V1900 it is a PITA because the posts are very close together (which was another reason I opted for plugs).

1poorguy

**And I could be wrong, but I suspect the more significant effect (relatively speaking) would be internal reflections of the signal from each interface, not from the addition of a fraction of an ohm resistance from the plugs I used.

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9715 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 3:29 PM
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LMBO!

Love the Reuters Fish and Deli!

Looks like I may be able to hit Alpena Sunday delivering a rooster to a guy I sold a couple guineas to a few years back. I can hit Home Depot for lamp cord or the one lamp store in the area.

RM


At Home Depot ask for speaker wire. Lamp wire is a term used to differentiate from multi-core wires used in bi-wiring speakers. Lamp wire, the actual stuff, is meant for 120v and is far too inflexible. What you’re looking for, technically, is dual conductor, multi-stranded, plastic insulated, 18-gauge cable showing polarity marking. Doubt if lamp stores carry that but you can try. Home Depot a better chance.

If neither take 1poorguy’s suggestion and buy on line.

As for ‘Reuters’s Fish and Deli’. At one time TMFTwitty thought them real and worried about copyright sometimes removing a post. So the addition of ‘Reuters’s Fish and Deli’ showing it is not a Reuters’s piece. Richard and I have had a real giggle about the whole thing.

MichaelR

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9716 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 6:27 PM
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You mean this:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDi...

Rather than this:

http://www.homedepot.com/Southwire/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1vZ4mm/R...

Then why were we talking lamp cord in the first place?

RM - confused

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Author: Radish Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9717 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 6:55 PM
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I'm pretty sure there's no difference between "lamp cord" and "speaker wire". Those two homedepot links are probably exactly the same wire, just with different labels. Hard to tell because the specs given for the speaker wire are obviously completely wrong (like the photo shows "stranded" and the specs say solid).

That's not to say that any given wire is the same as any other. You have different gauges, different numbers of strands per conductor, different insulations (color, thickness, and even material), different markings. But the differences aren't going to be based on whether its described as lamp cord or speaker wire. Both are going to be rated for at least 300V (since that's UL's requirement for indoor household-use wire in general).

You want flexible, go for more strands per conductor and thinner insulation. With those two being the same, a wire with a smaller gauge is going to be more flexible, but a smaller gauge isn't necessarily (or even usually) a good thing.

Phil

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9718 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 7:02 PM
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You mean this:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDi......

Rather than this:

http://www.homedepot.com/Southwire/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1vZ4mm/R......

Then why were we talking lamp cord in the first place?

RM - confused


The first, not the second.

Sorry to confuse: it’s a matter of terminology to distinguish between multi-conduit wire such as used for bi-wiring or bi-amping speakers and straight two-conduit speaker wire – which you need.

It’s called lamp wire because it resembles lamp wire even though you don’t buy lamp wire because it isn’t speaker grade lamp wire.

MichaelR

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9719 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 7:10 PM
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Well damn it, I already ordered the lamp cord and HD doesn't seem to give me any way to cancel it.

sigh

RM

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9720 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 7:27 PM
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Well damn it, I already ordered the lamp cord and HD doesn't seem to give me any way to cancel it.

sigh

RM


My fault entirely. I used a term I thought suitable but could be misinterpreted. I have called speaker wire ‘lamp wire’ for so many years I fallen into using ‘lamp wire’ as an almost generic term. Mea culpa.

MichaelR

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9721 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 7:31 PM
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Well the shipping was free and apparently I can return it to the store. I think I'll just wait on getting the correct stuff till this one is straightened out.

I do find it a bit bizarre that HD has absolutely no way to cancel an order that hasn't been shipped.

RM

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9722 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 7:47 PM
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However, in reading this article:

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

I think it probably doesn't really matter. And there was only a $3 difference in the price. I'm certainly not going to worry about it and I can ask my electrical engineer's opinion when he gets home.

Opinions?

RM

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Author: 1poorguy Big funky green star, 20000 posts Old School Fool CAPS All Star Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9723 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 8:14 PM
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Try calling HD. There should be a number there. Tell them you ordered the wrong thing.

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9724 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 8:26 PM
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However, in reading this article:

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

I think it probably doesn't really matter. And there was only a $3 difference in the price. I'm certainly not going to worry about it and I can ask my electrical engineer's opinion when he gets home.

Opinions?

RM


Keep it only if you can see the polarity (a red stripe or a raised edge on one side or printing on the insulation of one conduit). Else it’s really difficult getting speaker phase correct.

MichaelR

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9725 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/12/2012 8:55 PM
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Hal isn't worried he also says wire always has a raised edge/ridge or something to tell the sides apart.

So I'm not worried.

And my receiver left Buffalo in the wee hours this morning and arrived in Maumee, Ohio this afternoon. So close, yet so far.

It's coming UPS. I know the local UPS guy well enough, he won't get lost.

RM :-)

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9726 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/13/2012 12:43 AM
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I ended up soldering all the wire ends. Got tired of oxidation and indifferent alligator crimp terminals in the speaker cabinets causing pops and dropouts as the connections aged.

Richard


For sure, soldering does eliminate a loose strand touching another terminal.

What I use to prevent oxidation is silicon dielectric grease. Also helps lubricate the connection for easy removal.

MichaelR

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Author: fleg9bo Big funky green star, 20000 posts Top Recommended Fools Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9727 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/13/2012 2:17 AM
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I know the local UPS guy well enough, he won't get lost.

You can always tell which way is north from the smell of pasties coming from the Upper Peninsula.

--fleg

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9728 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/13/2012 10:22 AM
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You know, I have never had a pasty in the 12 years I have lived here. Do you recommend them? Hal just told me putting rutabagas in them is popular in the UP. If that's the case, they can keep them.

Back to accessories: my cables have now shipped. USPS unfortunately. They say it's arrived in Toledo so maybe it will get here sooner than the predicted arrival of NEXT Saturday.

No idea where the amp is, no new info after leaving Maumee, OH last night.

Oh the anticipation....

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Author: fleg9bo Big funky green star, 20000 posts Top Recommended Fools Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9729 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/13/2012 2:50 PM
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I have never had a pasty in the 12 years I have lived here. Do you recommend them?

I've had one pastie (pasty?) in my entire life -- when in the late 70s we drove from our home in Minneapolis across Wisconsin and the UP to visit friends in Toronto. My tastes were different then, so I can't say as to whether I'd recommend them now. It's certainly a good concept.

--fleg

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Author: MichaelRead Big gold star, 5000 posts Feste Award Winner! Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9730 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/13/2012 4:01 PM
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You know, I have never had a pasty in the 12 years I have lived here. Do you recommend them? Hal just told me putting rutabagas in them is popular in the UP. If that's the case, they can keep them.

Back to accessories: my cables have now shipped. USPS unfortunately. They say it's arrived in Toledo so maybe it will get here sooner than the predicted arrival of NEXT Saturday.

No idea where the amp is, no new info after leaving Maumee, OH last night.

Oh the anticipation....

RM


If you haven’t done it already the manual for your new amp is at:
http://download.yamaha.com/api/asset/file/?language=en&s...

It’s big at 13.5 MB and may take some time to download with your connection but it’s THE manual.

What I did with my Yamaha RX Z-11 was print out the manual and use the print-out to yellow marker highlighting certain areas I’d worked on and had made adjustments. I’d write what I had changed in the margins for reference. Realize your new amp has many adjustable levels and, while most are easily reset to your preferences, some do need thinking over.

As for pasties why not try Aunt Millie’s on Miller Street in Alpena?

MichaelR

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Author: 1poorguy Big funky green star, 20000 posts Old School Fool CAPS All Star Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9731 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/13/2012 4:51 PM
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This? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pasty

I'm sure you're not referring to this (which is the only "pastie" I knew about): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pasties

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9732 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/13/2012 5:07 PM
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The pronunciation is different.

;-p

RM

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9733 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/13/2012 5:12 PM
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Thanks Michael.

I have no idea why I didn't think of this before.

It took a couple of seconds. LOL My connection isn't that bad, but it's bad enough that I can't listen to internet radio. And some youtubes tend to buffer.

RM

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Author: TMFTwitty Big funky green star, 20000 posts Old School Fool CAPS All Star Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9734 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/14/2012 10:09 AM
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For sure, soldering does eliminate a loose strand touching another terminal.

Soldering also improves the connections between strands to maintain the maximum capacity of the wire. Not generally an issue unless you are running mongo power through tiny gauge wire, but I've been guilty of that on occasion.

Richard

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Author: RocketsMomma Big gold star, 5000 posts Old School Fool Add to my Favorite Fools Ignore this person (you won't see their posts anymore) Number: 9736 of 10514
Subject: Re: Accessories and Party Favors Date: 10/14/2012 10:58 AM
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Mongo power, lol. Something I've never had and doubtful I ever will. Be nice to think about though.

RM

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