As pointed out, using bare wire connecting the amp and speakers is a tad fiddly but reasonably so. Takes a little longer. I’d do that first and if you can get a good buy on banana plugs do that later. Hal thinks this is best, he says connecting to banana plugs is just adding another connection (I am assuming in terms of resistance) and therefore bare is better.RMHal is right yet the resistance created is minimal. Having bananas, as 1poorguy pointed out, is the ease of making the connection especially in tight situations. However, starting out with the new amp I’d go bare (get Hal to loan you a wire stripper). You will need an RCA jacked cable (male on both ends) from the amp’s sub out to the sub itself. Buy a Y-connector so you can have both of the sub’s inputs fed: that is if it does have two inputs, if just one then no Y-connector needed. We sort of skirted around this once but never got into any depth that I can remember anyway. But what is this connection for? I assume this is to the level in on the sub? (BTW I found the manual the other day). Other than being plugged into the wall for power the only other connection in use are the L/R speaker terminals.Your new amp has a sub pre-out meaning while all other speaker connections are powered from the cut off level (which you can choose and it will probably be 120 Hz). the signal below that cutoff are sent to the sub pre-out un-amplified (using the sub’s amp are the power source). I don’t know your sub but it must have two line inputs (see manual) to which the sub pre-out is connected. You won’t need the speaker level connections because the speakers are now driven by the amp. Heck no, I don't have to go with Monster but why 18 rather than say 16? I think the Monster is probably 14 judging on the thickness but the room the system was originally bought for was much longer. I do like the idea of lamp cord, is that always copper? Since aluminum wiring in walls is frowned upon by most building codes, I suspect things may be similar for lamp cord?I don’t know of any speaker wire that is aluminum (the alternative to copper is silver and that blows the budget big time). Why 18-gauge stranded copper lamp wire? Anything below that is too damn hard to work with and may not fit into the five-way binding posts unless you have an adapter (more cost).If the old wiring you have has corrosion for only a few inches, you could cut this off exposing clean wire. Depends on needed length and it will work – but if it were me, I’d replace with 18-gauge. I'm pretty sure the digital audio cable, now that Hal has refreshed my memory, was for getting the sound for broadcast TV out of the antenna in of the TV to the digital audio in on the amp so we could hear CBS using the surround system.You may have to continue using this unless you have a booster amp on the OAT aerial that can send a line output you can then connect to the amp. As for the sewing/art room get some small powered computer-type speakers and use your old DVD as a CD player (after you get the Blu-ray). I went to that private sale at the appliance store today. Pretty much only LCD TVs, a couple different DVD/Blu ray players in boxes, not even set up and no speakers or amps any where. I did find some new vinyl that I hope to install next year. Have to remodel the kitchen first. Probably not a large profit line for them. Any other stores in the area?MichaelR
Best Of |
Favorites & Replies |
Start a New Board |
My Fool |
BATS data provided in real-time. NYSE, NASDAQ and NYSEMKT data delayed 15 minutes.
Real-Time prices provided by BATS. Market data provided by Interactive Data.
Company fundamental data provided by Morningstar. Earnings Estimates, Analyst Ra