Now it could probably be reconfigured to run when the furnace is not running but then the furnace fan would need to still be running in order to pass air through the wet pad. Had one of those in the Pittsburgh house and it worked great. I run the fan 24/7 because if asthma and 5 animals, so this wouldn't be an issue for me. Change four filters every three months. Especially if the 'fill light' goes off soon after the water starts filling.I can easily see it adding only a small amount at a time, which results in numerous cyclings each day. No, the light stays on while filling, goes off after. The switch (float valves in both) was spring loaded and used to cycle every 3-5 minutes, which made me crazy. I defeated that very simply: the fill tube now runs into a 2 liter bottle (placed in the area where the water jug used to fit), which has a pinhole at the bottom. The pinhole lets water out at a far slower rate than the fill tube allows water in, so the cycle time is now over one hour. The two liter bottle fills about 3/4 of the way before enough has trickled out to reset the switch. Meanwhile the water continues trickling out for the next 5 minutes, even though the unit has started running again. This 1-hour cycle is longer than the ice maker cycle time (and we use a lot of ice but not 24/7, but also year round, so maybe it balances?), plus the humidifier is only in use from December-March.Still, running 24/7 that's a lot of cycles, so you may have hit on it. (I'll check the voltage at the bridge, too. Don't know why I didn't think to do that, but if it's 110 at the relay I don't know how it might be different at the light. Under-amped, is all I could think of, but that didn't make sense.)It's literally one wrench, two nuts (water in & water out) and two slip on electrical connectors, so it's a ten minute changeover, tops. And the $20 every couple years, so it's not a big deal, but at least I have an idea what it is: cycles. Hmmm. How to reduce the cycles even further... Hmmm.)
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