Over in "Help with this STUPID computer!" forum, someone recommended a UPS (also known as Backup Power) for the TV and everything connected to the TV.Do you have your TV, DVD or blu-ray player, streaming video device, etc., unprotected, on a surge protector, or on a UPS?Any other comments about electrical protection?
TV, etc. plugged directly into the wall
TV, etc. on surge protector
TV, etc. on backup power (UPS)
Plan to get surge protector for TV
Plan to get backup power for TV
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Click here to see results so far.
You could go either way, but you should do something. And not one of those cheap power strip thingies. They usually only last for a hit or two, and seldom tell you when they've been hit. So after that your system is wide open to surges.Better to get a line conditioning unit. I have one similar to this:http://www.crutchfield.com/p_119HDP900G/Monster-GreenPower-H...I know Monster is overpriced in general, and the quality is no better, but this particular item (based on my research at the time) they did right. It's the only Monster product I have purchased in 20 years (when I learned they were no better).1poorguy
Mark. I feel strongly about the electrical supply to a home theater. While a UPS is useful for an orderly shutdown for a computer it has little use in a home theater. More important is spike protection and power smoothing.My system has a constant voltage unit connected to a power smoothing unit that feeds all components. Before, the voltage swung from 125 to 110, and when other appliances (fridge, washer/dryer, etc.) kicked in there would be affects noted in the TV and sound. Junk coming down from the outside pole pig (neighbors’ electrical appliances kicking in) added to the degrading.Best get a combo strip/line smoother such as Monster’s http://www.monstercable.com/power/linelist/Powerlist.asp?cat...MichaelR
Best get a combo strip/line smoother such as Monster’s http://www.monstercable.com/power/linelist/Powerlist.asp?cat... I was surprised how low the customer ratings were for those "Powerbars": 2.2 and 2.6 stars out of 5. That's pathetic!I read some of the reviews and it's apparent that many people didn't realize the audible alarm meant the surge suppression had died. But it can be a hassle to find the original receipt and UPC symbol or shipping invoice five years after purchase to receive warranty support, which also caused some former customers problems.
As of this writing: 0 ( 0%) plug TV directly into the wall12 (92%) use a surge protector for the TV 1 ( 8%) use backup power or UPS for the TV 0 ( 0%) have plans on changingI had picked "surge protector" because in my ... we could call it my "den" ... I have an APC "Back-UPS ES 550" (at the most sensitive setting) and have my computer, monitor, modem, Roku, and router on the backup-power-protected outlets, and have the printer, speakers on the surge-protected outlets. I have a separate surge protector for the clock, 46-in LCD HD TV, blu-ray player, DVD player, VCR and answering machine. (In a few weeks the VCR will be disconnected and stored in the closet.)In my bedroom I have another APC "Back-UPS ES 550" (also at the most sensitive setting) and the HD DVR and 32-in LED/LCD TV on the backup-power-protected outlets and the DVD/VHS player is just surge protected. When I purchased the ES 550 for the HD DVR, the salesman suggested I also hook the TV to it because of the lower power draw, so I did. I just didn't want the DVR to keep on losing the TV schedule at each power flicker, and indeed the ES 550 has taken care of that, even with the 4-second outage that occurred yesterday morning. The intent isn't to watch a show during an outage, but to have the equipment last as long as feasible and hopefully not have the TV schedule disappear so readily.I'm wondering if I should put my 46-in TV and blu-ray player in my "den" on their own "Back-UPS" and plugged into the backup-power-protected outlets. I don't want them on the same one as the computer because I want as much time as possible to do a graceful shutdown of my PC during an outage, whereas I don't mind hitting the off buttons on the remote for the TV and its peripherals in quick order.
0 ( 0%) plug TV directly into the wall12 (92%) use a surge protector for the TV 1 ( 8%) use backup power or UPS for the TV 0 ( 0%) have plans on changing
Mark12547,I'm wondering if I should put my 46-in TV and blu-ray player in my "den" on their own "Back-UPS" and plugged into the backup-power-protected outlets.When I helped the company I worked for close their local office, I bought all the equipment they didn't want to ship all the way to HQ for a nominal amount. Included was a number of APC UPS's (which are heavy!). So I used to have a lot of stuff around the house on UPS's.But I got tired of replacing the batteries every 4 or 5 years. Even though I still have pretty good connections in the electronics industry, and thus could get decent prices on the batteries, it still adds up. Now I just have my computer and the house's Internet gear (Verizon's fiber-optic box, their WiFi router, and an Ethernet switch) on UPS's. Our various laptops essentially have a built-in UPS, since they switch over to their internal battery.It's a little annoying when there's a power failure while my DVR is supposed to be recording a show, since it's no longer on a UPS. But it doesn't happen often enough to worry about.On the gear without UPS's, I use conventional surge suppressors. The UL listed ones are required to have an indicator as to whether the surge suppressor (almost always MOV-based) is still working or not. Each surge damages the MOV's a little, and eventually they become too conductive to work properly.Phil
Included was a number of APC UPS's (which are heavy!).Helpful hint: UPS weight is a great first approximation of relative capacity. Batteries are heavy. The heavier the UPS, the longer it lasts when asked to do its job.
RHinCT,Helpful hint: UPS weight is a great first approximation of relative capacity. Batteries are heavy. The heavier the UPS, the longer it lasts when asked to do its job.Some of them were the extended-runtime versions, but some just had high amperage capacity (which requires a bigger battery for the same runtime).Phil
Phil,Yes, there are surely many other factors to consider besides weight! Maximum draw is one, and the tradeoff between how fast it draws down vs how long it lasts is pretty clear. There are only so many KWH in there, so know up front how you will be using them.RH in CT
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