Sorry I've hijacked your thread. RMMost pleased you have. You’ve added to the thread. But first reset the sub’s crossover to 120 Hz if it’s not there already and experiment with the phase switch on the sub – bass is affected if the mains and the subs products are out-of-phase: one setting will give you better bass than the other. Also, toeing in speakers, even subs, can make a difference.I did that, it was set at 80. On re-reading the booklet I can still find, the one from BA listing the whole mid 1990's line, it said this sub actually has a variable range between 50 and 150 Hz, they only marked the 80 and 120. The sub’s upper range setting should be at the main speakers’ lowest. That way the total frequency range is seamless. I don’t know the frequencies of your mains but you can’t go wrong setting the sub to 120-150 There will be some slight duplication at that mark but, essentially, better some overlap than a hole.I've also slightly angled it towards the center. DH's recliner has the prime spot smack in the middle of everything, my chair is a 5 feet to the right. I guess I'll also try angling the left front speaker towards the center, the right front points between our chairs.Try this: aim the left main at your seat and the right main to his. Alternately, left and right mains aimed at the space between the seats. Most speaker placements try for a ‘sweet spot’ acting if having off-axis speakers is a crime. If you make the sweet spot wider then sure there’s some off-axis but I also take into consideration how speaker placement affects room reverb and null spots.If the speakers were previously placed parallel to the walls and then you then toe them towards the listening area this alters the reverb characteristics of the room. Since the perfect room doesn’t exist outside a sound lab one has to experiment with what one has. You will get better sound toeing in the speakers but the exact amount is more dependent on the room than the speakers themselves. I have seem some most expensive speakers not perform well and some cheapies from Radio Shack do far better when toed in. Another question on that line in for the sub's amp (listed with a 75 watt high-current amp). My Sony doesn't not have anything on the back called pre-out and looking at the Yamaha 373 which is the a/v I think I will get, it does not have a pre-out either but it does have a single jack labeled sub woofer. It's not looking as though I'll be able to use the sub's amp either? Would I even want to?How do you have the sub presently connected? For data: the Yamaha 373’s sub out is a pre-out sending a line level signal and the amp’s internal crossover sends a low-frequency signal to the sub so the sub’s amp can amplify. Tip: get a y-connector connected to the sub’s left and right channels. The sub you have is designed as a low frequency speaker. Technically it is a sub woofer in that it handles stuff below a woofer and, as an adjunct to a stereo system, sought after. Back then hi-fi purists said if you can hear the sub its set too high. That’s why subs produced in that period were low wattage (70-150) – after all, who needs any higher power?Home theater was poo-pooed by the hi-fi purists mainly because of the ‘manufactured’ separation created by commercial theater Dolby sound. Too much ‘boom’, not enough musicality. That argument still rages in places today. Subs have changed in the past decade: more oomph and able to handle an LFE signal as in 5.1. What happened was it became acceptable to have a strong bass as an effect channel. RM, when you get the Yamaha amp you will have the advanced sound codecs and, while your present sub will handle some bass, it may have a problem with very-low frequencies. It may work out and it is experimental time.MichaelR
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