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Subject:  Mumbai restaurants Date:  9/8/2019  9:47 AM
Author:  OrmontUS Number:  24336 of 25553

I've been editing the Mumbai section of my book "Take the High Road - A Primer for the Independent Traveler" in preparation of another visit, thought I'd post some restaurant advice.

I particularly enjoyed writing the one about Bademiya. My wife limited her experience to naan bread and water, but I enjoyed both the food and the sort of edgy experience (it's something like why people take roller coasters - you know you're not likely to die, but it just feels like it while you are riding :-)

Delhi Dorbor restaurant (10/14 Holland House, Colaba Causeway Shaheed Bhagat Singh Road, near Regal Cinema), home of Mumbai's best Biryani rice. We ate a great Indian lunch, with good service at a very reasonable price. This is a halal restaurant and also serves some middle eastern dishes. One of my personal favorites.

Copper Chimney restaurant (18th Hargovindas Building, K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort). The food was outstanding, the prices in between those of the Taj hotel's Indian restaurant and those of Delhi Dorbor and the service not terrible, but in need of some improvement.

Chetana (34K Dubash Marg, Kalaghoda), a traditional thali restaurant. This style of food involves a plate holding cups kept full of a variety of veggie dishes which are perpetually refilled by the waiters. The assortment is from a variety of regional areas. My wife was able to get a spice-free selection and mine had more taste.

Bademiya, (behind the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel on Apollo Bundar, Homiman Circle, Mohammad Ali Road (or just ask anyone as it is quite famous) but I do warn you that this place is not for the faint of heart (or stomach). Bademiya, famous for its kabobs, apparently started as a street pushcart in the 1940’s and has grown to be two long stands (one for meat and the other vegetarian). For those who don’t want to eat on the street, there are metal tables across the street, in what looks like an abandoned warehouse, (with the paint chipping and the plaster falling off the walls in a fashion where the negative ambiance makes you hope that simple antacids and stool tighteners will be all that you require to survive eating there). There, you will find laminated menus in English (like that really helps a lot if you don’t know the names of the dishes in the first place and wasn’t much of an improvement over a Hindi menu) and, of course, a long queue waiting for a table – as well as a “runner” who will take your order across the street to the stand and bring the food back. All kidding aside, the food is wonderful, the prices inexpensive and (aside from my not trusting the water), seems reasonably hygienic. This is a place for those who want to try Mumbai street food.

Social Offline restaurant and bar (20-22 B.K. Boman Behram Marq, Apollo Bunder), directly behind the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. It serves a good breakfast all day It also serves well as a bar to unwind in at the end of the day.

“Indian Summer” restaurant (80, Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate) was a very tasty buffet (at about 960 rupees). On the other hand, it does use chafing dishes (which may not keep the food hot enough), so I would prefer to eat elsewhere.

PaPaYa (Modern Asian Bistro) in the Diplomat Hotel (24-26 B.K. Boman Behram Marq, Apollo Bunder), directly behind the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, serves a good variety of pan-Asian food, but there was no Indian food

Other restaurants worthy of mention include Zaffaran, which is a bit further into the city, and further away, in the city center, but still noteworthy, is the Tamasha restaurant.

Intercontinental Hotel Roof Bar. While this is not one of the world’s most luxurious hotels like the Taj Palace Hotel, it is a five star establishment where we took the elevator to the roof for photos of Chowpatty and the Queen’s Necklace from the top-floor bar

The following are quite expensive compared to the above, but all serve excellent Indian food:

"Masala Kraft", the Taj Palace Hotel's Indian restaurant. Predictably, the food was excellent and the prices high - the usual for a luxury hotel.

Dokshin Coastal, ITC Hotel – Expensive, but excellent southern Indian cuisine

Khyber, 145, Ground Floor, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Kala Ghoda, halal meat and vegetarian in great ambiance. (on the same street as Copper Chimney and Chetana restaurants), very popular with tourists sent by hotel concierges.

Trishna, 7, Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, excellent fish and seafood restaurant

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