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Only the coast is crowded. The hinterland north of the Autoroute A8 is completely the opposite of the coast in this respect, is empty. As more so as further North you come.

If you want mountains, more tracks than you could ever wish for in your life (have a zoomed in look with Google Maps) and fantastic landscape and can stand that you are therefore not exactly at the beach have a look at the areas Alpes-Maritimes, Haute-Provence, Var or further into the mountains Hautes-Alpes.

If in summer not too hot climate + mountains and tracks have priority the area around Castellane and the Georges du Verdon is among the best (though cold in Winter).
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