HelloI have a question about folks that use cameras and internet security in your own connections.While I looked into a DIY hardwired system it just seems so much effort (money and brains) to run wires.No one here (and I've asked the dog) is really up for that.Does anyone use the 'cloud' versions of security?I have bought a camera and while they don't require a subscription, I've pretty much given permissions into my network.Totally new to this.nagwho has a dog that alerts me, but stinks at taking photos
FWIW, I use Blink. I have a half dozen cameras inside and out. They only bummer is you have to change batteries. But they use lithium batteries, which last a good long time (typically over a year outside).
1poorguyDo you have concerns over network security?nag
Not too much. I won't say it can't be hacked. Almost anything can be hacked. The cameras upload to the cloud, and alert our smartphones when motion is detected. Everything is controlled via the smartphone app. I don't know that any one can turn the cameras on who doesn't a) have the app, and b) is logged into our account. Any new logins would generate emails to the email on record, so they would have to have hacked my email too so they could delete the message before I saw it.There is a small delay between detected motion, and availability of the clip on the phone. We use it to check who is at the door before opening it, for example. An impatient person will have walked away before we can view the clip, but mostly people are still there if/when we open the door.1poorguy
My mom felt less secure as she aged so my brother put up Ring cameras around to monitor her house from miles away. No wires it’s all via WiFi. Sees lots of wildlife but a strange girl did show up last week riding a bike and he has video and sound of her (moms house is back from the road and somewhat secluded). So they do work. Since the cameras are outside not as much of a hacking or security issue. Motion activated .
I'll dig a little deeper into this..I go to Defcon and other hacking security conferences and anything WiFi is easily hacked and easily blocked by a simple jamming device. Will the people coming around your home have the know how to do this?? Who knows just some info for you.Wired is a pain but it's really the most secure and reliable way to go, plus you can put the camera anywhere as the network wire can power the camera as well. No need to mount it near an electrical outlet, this is great for outdoor cameras mounted to the house. Like anything there are ups and downs to each method and usually several methods available.I have this rationale for devices at home, if I need to move around with the device it goes on wifi. If it sits in one spot it gets a wire. I also do not like things that need batteries, charging etc. especially when it sits in one spot. Just my thoughts.
Thanks very much for all the info!nag
For securing the connection to your network, it is typically recommended to create a guest network that is dedicated for all of your smart devices (assuming your current router supports that). This allows you to segment that and restrict access to the rest of the devices on your network.
I've delayed a wired camera system, maybe more than a year now, while the interest comes and goes as catalytic converter thefts, vehicle thefts happen, then arrests... Had a Costco 4 or 6 camera system picked out, then it was gone.. so still watching.. Biggest headache is where I'd like the back yard camera, and how to get that cable back there... Front yard/driveway, Front door, and even side yard I can get the wiring from the garage, where the base unit would be, but getting to the back of the house, through an insulation filled attic is tougher than I want to deal with.. Maybe a combination, leave the back yard, maybe side yard as wireless, the others wired... We just painted, had painted, almost all of the indoors, so the thought of a foot plunging through the ceiling is not a good thing to ponder.. Maybe an external conduit? I've done that to get AC & ethernet/cat5 cables from the garage or my 'office' where they need to go.. Attic & crawlspace access is no longer available.. So wireless is looking better, other than eating batteries.. All good reminders of the project... One more where I do not want monthly fees...
In our case, wiring would be a pain. Could be done. We have one wire for the front door. It was directed towards the TV, so we had to have the TV on and then switch the input on the TV to that camera. It worked, but only if we happened to have the TV on. Not really practical.The WiFi cameras are easily placed, and we can move the hub someplace unobtrusive. Batteries are the only inconvenience.Cameras aren't going to stop anyone, and I don't think most would be sophisticated enough to hack into a system. We don't have the Hope Diamond in the house, so sophisticated thieves wouldn't be attracted. The cameras also won't stop anyone. The alarm is the first line of defense there. The cameras are a back-up to the alarm when we are away. The enable them when we leave, and then if there is an alarm and the alarm company calls us, we can verify if someone is indeed in the house. That has happened once. One of the motion detectors tripped. No one was there, so we suspect an insect crawled (or flew) across the sensor.
This one is wired, but about what I was long at in a Swann system before. This is Lorex, seems decent, other than it's all wired.. Like to find a mixed setup, some wired, some wireless.. https://www.costco.com/lorex-4k-ultra-hd-8-channel-dvr-secur...No concerns about hacking, either... Actually I should go talk to the kid across the Court, well, was a kid, no out, married, etc, but does camera installs.. He put an Owl system in for his parents, maybe all wireless, tho... Many options... Inlaw looked for systems to monitor the halls in his apartment complex, installed, but in the end, left in place, but inactive, the cameras stopped activities just by being there..
So wireless is looking better I have a half dozen Wyze cameras pointed in various directions. 5 of them are powered via a wall-wart and power cable. In most cases it cable is unobtrusive and the cameras work fine for what they are.I have one “outdoor” camera which is battery powered, takes a small button battery (32), which lasts about 6 months. I’ve had to change it once, so far. It does not give a continuous record as the others do, it’s motion sensitive and always upcuts the first couple seconds, but otherwise it does the job. I have it in a location where there just isn’t any power nearby.All but two of the cameras are indoors looking through windows. The two outdoor ones are not meant to be outdoors, but they are under an overhang and after a full year don’t seem any the worse for wear.(Yes, I have the outdoor one indoors, and two of the indoor ones outdoors. I’m an iconoclast, apparently.)
Weco wrote Biggest headache . . . how to get that cable back there.Have you thought about exterior conduit? We ran a 120 line from the garage to a water feature in PVC - maybe 18 inches deep. (I did not dig that trench.) The power came from a wall socket in the garage. Drill a hole through the back of the outlet box, sheathing and siding. Ran conduit down the siding and into the soil. You could even have a wireless access point in your garage and connect Cat5 to that.
Have you thought about exterior conduit?Yes, indeed, have done it for years now to get ethernet (CAT5) cables from my 'office' where the router/switch is located out and around to the garage where it runs on the rafters to the living room for yet another switch for the AppleTV, Smart TV, and an Apple Express to extend my wifi. Ran another conduit along the same path to bring AC out to the 'office' so I have a separate AC outlet from a subpanel I'd added in the garage, so my laser printer doesn't affect the other stuff & lights in my office. Olden days of our HOA's private CATV system I'd also run coax cables to various rooms, once I realized I no longer wanted to crawl under the house or mess around in the attic. Anyway, yes, several conduit runs, but in the overhead, under the porch, around the fireplace, and way back when I built the shop, I ran that 6/3+Grd across the attic to a nearby wall, down, and underground, in conduit, so I had 220v & 120v in the shop and for the welder, as well as the RV Trailer there in the side yard.. Conduit is really cheap, easy to work with, safe, etc. Another conduit ran has a 50 pair cable & coax, between garage and shop, but really only used i pair for the landline out there.. Was going to set up a mini office, complete with TV, computer, but never came to need it... I've been here since about 1974, so many needs, projects, forever changing... But definitely slowing down, and most recently with covid and other family crises, really slowed to a trickle.. weco (still considering options)
I have one “outdoor” camera which is battery powered, takes a small button battery (32), which lasts about 6 months. I’ve had to change it once, so far.You mean one CR2032 battery in 6 months? Seems too good to be true.The only one I could find on the Wyze web site is this:https://wyze.com/wyze-cam-outdoor.htmlIt says it takes two 2,600 mAh rechargeable batteries every 3-6 months.Even this is pretty awesome since a typical cell phone battery is 3000-5000 mAh and lasts about a day. Of course the screen usually consumes most of the power.A CR2032 is 210 mAh just for reference.Mike
The Blink system requires 2 AA lithium. The ones outdoors (AZ heat) last for about a year. The ones indoors last a lot longer. At least two to three years.FWIW.Depending on how the camera operates, a 2032 could last a long time. All depends on much circuitry is active when it is in passive mode (i.e. waiting for a trigger). And, of course, how many times it triggers. Our front door cameras trigger a lot more (delivery people, birds, etc). The indoor, not so much.1poorguy
Goofyhoofy,I did buy the Wyze camera v3. I'm a bit worried about that 'free subscription' that they pull 12 seconds of camera data from you into the cloud.This is my first experience with cameras.I do worry about it not being hardwired, which is stupid because that's the reason I bought it. (Easy to set up)I think too much and want to avoid risk but have no idea how my house is wired for internet except for where I plug in now.I wonder if there's companies out there that install hardwired things without a subscription.nag
It says it takes two 2,600 mAh rechargeable batteries every 3-6 months.Even this is pretty awesome since a typical cell phone battery is 3000-5000 mAh and lasts about a day. Of course the screen usually consumes most of the power.My daughter's Ring camera takes a rechargeable battery around the same 2600 mAh capacity range. Since her driveway is short, it catches every car on the street and every person on the sidewalk. It discharges in about a week.I guess longevity is how active it is around your house. If you are living on an acre in a rural area, it could last for months or a year.PSU
Since her driveway is short, it catches every car on the street and every person on the sidewalk. It discharges in about a week.Apparently that's a common problem with Ring doorbells. That's why I didn't opt to get one. Cool idea, but it needs to point somewhere other than the street while still covering the porch/front-door. My cameras are mounted to provide such views. The only problem we have is birds and bugs can set them off.
Apparently that's a common problem with Ring doorbells. That's why I didn't opt to get one. Cool idea, but it needs to point somewhere other than the street while still covering the porch/front-door. My cameras are mounted to provide such views. The only problem we have is birds and bugs can set them off.This camera was for covering the garage door. She had another camera for the front door and another one for the back door. Just trying to cover all the entrances. The front door one was a Ring doorbell so it was wired to power.PSU
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