Just inherited one of these. Wood is a little dry, but not terrible. I want to seal it, but first I think I should give it something to moisturize it a bit. Any recommendations for such a product? I'll do a weather seal afterwards (it's going to stay on the back patio...under shelter, but still subject to ambient heat in the summer).1poorguy
In my experience when wood is dry you have three choices. #1. Do nothing. #2. If the wood is one of the naturally oily woods (teak being the most common to me) - oil the wood with in the case of my boats "teak" oil. Important note in the case of my boats once the wood is either oiled or varnished, that is a forever decision. #3. Paint the wood with an exterior paint - and get the highest quality available. In the Do Nothing department, one has the option of sanding the wood to remove the dried surface material - this is common when reclaimed wood is repurposed for furniture or other second life purposes.
Multiple, slightly thinned coats of tung oil until it quits soaking it up. Re-oil each year or two. https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/pure-tung-chinawood/....Kathleen
OK. Based on GWPotter, once oiled I'm assuming I can't ever seal it. Which isn't a huge problem, just wasn't my original thought. But may be a better thought than mine.I did figure I would sand it a bit, though the slats are fairly narrow (i.e. maybe an inch apart), so sanding between without rounding the edges of the wood would be challenging. Top and bottom surfaces will be easy. I even have a new sander I want to try out (bought to refinish the front door, but haven't had time what with mom falling and me having to handle her affairs and then get her moved to a senior community). The potting bench was hers, but she has no space for it in her new place (and wasn't using it in her old place), so she gave it to 1poorlady.1poorguy
Tung oil has a lot of unsaturation - it cross links. I had not thought of that. Cut it with some turpentine and put several thin coats. Give the oil a significant period to dry and the the chemical cross linking reactions to occur.A great suggestion by Kathleen -
When I remodeled the bathrooms last year I added a folding seat in the shower, teak topped. DW used it a bit when she had foot surgery last year, but now mostly unused, we noted it supporting mold. So we scrubbed it good and after using the shower, lifting it horizontal seems to help it dry better... So for my next trick, I think adding a tung oil treatment to the seat top may be what's needed. If I lie on my back on the floor I think I can get at the mounting screws, then take it to the shop for treating in thoroughly on all surfaces before re-mounting it... Daily drowning...
Weco bathrooms are damp places - many do not adequately moisture removal. This problem has gotten worse steadily as house construction has gotten more energy efficient. Bathroom vents come with 3 and 4 inch sized ducts. Changing the ducts is at best a fiberglass infused PITA. If your fan is under an attic installed furnace or between floors life get more challenging. We installed this fan in our current house - completed December 2017. It is one of the few which will work with either duct size and has the air flow required to change the air is 20 minutes (or less).http://tinyurl.com/y5vzstfj This fan will turn on immediately when the wall switch is closed and run for about 10 seconds. After that the motion detector activates the fan when anyone enters and the fan runs for 20 minutes. In the summer when the AC runs our need for this fan is less. But in the shoulder seasons, humidity in our bath room typically is 15% or more above the ambient in the rest of the house.
We went a step up to this unit... https://www.build.com/panasonic-fv-1115vkl2/s1496824?uid=350...I have several modules, well, all the modules, but so far haven't had time to sort out how it's working... Wiring at the time was done by a sub, electrician, but he vanished, and the contractor was oblivious to actual setting up, testing the fan. Wiring diagram has 3 switches, one for the light, one for the fan and a mysterious 3rd switch that I don't see doing anything. The fan works, but it's all manual until I have time to dive in and spend a lot of phone support time unless I can find a local contractor to come out set it up if I can't figure it out. Electrician wired one bathroom, per the diagram, the other bath wasn't ready yet, so later on, I wired the switches, identical to the first. Access to the ceiling fan isn't really available as I recall, unless there is a cover plate I didn't notice. The nite light only works if e fan is left on, so far I've never seen the fan shut down, even when there is no moisture, like I said, it's all manual.. On/Off... Even with the humidity sensing and motion modules in place...So another project for another thread when I get to it...For now, off to buy a bunch of mulch for the yard... weco
Weco wrote Access to the ceiling fan isn't really available as I recall, unless there is a cover plate I didn't notice. I don't understand this - you can see and access everything from below the unit i.e. in the bath room except the vent tube and maybe some power connections. Check the installation manual the has a link at the Build.com website. There is a wiring diagram - is your first unit connected as per the diagram? Does it function/work as described in the manual(s)?
See this videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HflvCzzIPI I entered Panasonic FV-1115VKL2 into the YouTube search function and the above link was the first hit. There are a whole lot of them on functions, features, wiring, mechanical installation in the ceiling, etc.I am suspect you are not aware this fan is not designed to run like the $25 builder special fans that have a light bulb (switch controlled) and a noisy low cfm fan which is controlled by a different switch. The manual does not make the particularly clear, but the video linked above to a Panasonic person does. (Yes I know you can hook this fan up to run like the Builder's special - a poor idea if humidity control is a desired result.)
I have dowloaded, printed the online manual(s), for the unit, and each of the modules, as well as isolating the wiring diagram, so I had a large printout for the electrician(s) to work from, as well as myself. So once the ceiling was closed up, as I recall, the connections at the fan are not available form the bottom, only the ports for the various modules. And as it turns out, while they offer 4 modules, (Muti-speed, Condensation Sensor, Motion Sensor, Night Lite), there are really only 3 ports, so not all could be used.I have, in the Master Bath, the Multi-speed, Condensation, and Motion Sensor modules. Hall Bath, Multi-speed & Nite Lite... So, no, with all switches Off, nothing happens if I walk in the Master, or the Hall bathrooms. Only when the fan switch is On does the fan slow start, and runs until shut off... Similar in the Hall bath, except there the Night light comes on as long as the light switch is off, but that fan has to be on for that to happen. Per the diagram, the Light is completely separate from the other functions.. The third switch is a mystery as it does nothing.. I understand what it is supposed to do, but it isn't.I'll have to find time to call support, maybe they have a local tech... From what I saw at the time, as well as talking to the electricians, the unit wiring was right. Looking at the switches, they look right, so I've been putting it off until I know I can dedicate more time to sorting it out... I have all the paperwork, just need the time... Here's a video also helping explain how it should work...https://www.protradecraft.com/panasonic/three-ways-wire-pana...And here's the drawing I marked up for myself & the electricians...http://postmyimage.com/img2/383_Pan_Fan_Wiring.jpgAnd this is a side view of the fan as mounted, you can see the electric connections are in the attic space...http://postmyimage.com/img2/158_Panasonic_Fan_Final.jpgLots was done, the push was on to finish the job, get all them guys outta here... So now, a bit to deal with on my own or via help from Panasonic. Pointless to even talk tot he contractor, he wasn't an electrician, and the electricians were gone before the final parts of the job were done... weco
Yes, that's the same video I linked to earlier.. So the 3rd method is where I'm at, Except the fan never shuts down, hence my view that there has to be maybe an error in maybe a setting, or there are combinations that don't work together... I was surprised that there were only 3 ports when they offered 4 modules.. I'd rather have just loaded them both up, let it go... So I still need to talk to the live dude, or see if they have a local tech to come by... I have a bag of modules setting idle, so far.. Need a young guy that can see better and kink his neck to see in there better, too!Nice fans, each has their own roof jack, outside vented..
Revisiting this, I did get the tung oil. Just in time to go on vacation, and have elderly mom issues, and some other stuff. Now it's too bloody hot. But when it cools off I need to follow through on this.The labels says to cut it with a citrus solvent to aid penetration and drying. No specific recommendations given. Do you have a preferred type/brand?1poorguy
Best Of |
Favorites & Replies |
Start a New Board |
My Fool |